Biotech 360°: Shaping the Future of Cosmetic Innovation

Blue Biotech: The wealth of the oceans

Blue biotechnology, or marine biotechnology, taps into the ocean’s vast and invaluable resources to develop new cosmetic ingredients. Algae, for instance, are a prolific source of active compounds used for their moisturizing, anti-aging, and anti-inflammatory properties (e.g., Essenc’Age^®, SeaLight^®). Marine organisms can also produce unique enzymes and bioactive peptides, paving the way for the development of innovative cosmetics.

Sustainable harvesting and the responsible use of marine resources remain major challenges. Industry players must strike a delicate balance between innovation and the preservation of marine ecosystems. Microalgae represent another exciting source of innovation (e.g. , HelioPure^® Skin), with around twenty species currently produced at an industrial scale out of over 30,000 identified. Their cultivation in bioreactors ensures a controlled production environment, significantly reducing the impact on natural marine ecosystems.

Green Biotech: The essence of nature

Plant extraction processes have also undergone major advancements. Techniques such as supercritical fluid extraction (e.g., ReVYskin^®) make it possible to obtain optimized plant extracts free from solvent residues. Green-biotech methods aim to provide safe and effective alternatives to traditional extracts by concentrating targeted molecules (e.g., 3Dermilyn^®), making them especially valuable in cosmetics that combine naturality with high performance.

These techniques also promote the valorization of often-overlooked plant parts, contributing to a more holistic and sustainable use of botanical resources (e.g., Glycerolat^® SFT Cascara). They also enable the extraction of high-performance actives like Pro-Longevia^®, derived from raspberry leaves grown organically and obtained through co-extraction under subcritical conditions (SolaGreen^® technology). This ingredient targets key markers of aging, supports skin vitality, limits cellular senescence, and brightens the complexion for a radiant skin.

Biome-tech: A new frontier

The study of the skin microbiome marks a major breakthrough in the field of cosmetics. Understanding the interactions between the microorganisms that inhabit our skin and their impact on skin health is opening up exciting new possibilities. Today, cosmetic products can be formulated to support a balanced microbiome (e.g., Ecoskin^®), offering benefits such as reduced irritation, improved hydration, and enhanced protection against pathogens (e.g., Serenibiome^®).

Prebiotics (e.g., Bioecolia^®) and postbiotics (e.g., Saniscalp^®) have emerged as key ingredients in many skincare formulations, reflecting a growing trend toward microbiome-centered, science-backed solutions.

A necessary balance

Synthetic ingredients are indeed effective but they have significant limitations. Their production can be energy-intensive and may generate pollutants. Growing consumer skepticism toward synthetic compounds is shifting the market in favor of natural alternatives, which are perceived as safer and healthier.

Natural ingredients, however, come with their own set of challenges. Their performance and consistency can be affected by climate conditions, cultivation practices, and harvesting methods. Moreover, intensive harvesting of plants can lead to overexploitation and ecosystem degradation.

The integration of biotechnology in the cosmetics industry is not simply about choosing between natural and synthetic. It’s about finding the optimal balance between both worlds.